Project Description


This page is password protected. I thought this might be a good way to keep track on things and share ideas.

Engine / Drivetrain Info

Engine Spec

LSR (all aluminium version of LSX block) supplied by Concept Performance

Engine to be built by CBM Racing

Current Engine spec:


A few current curious questions:

There’s a Pro Charger kit listed here – is it a charged engine (that would be awesome of course)?

Dry sump or wet sump?

The Dailey Stage 3 system they list as an option is pretty badass. There’s a few options here as you’d expect, and you can get it with a fitting kit and with a fitting kit plus breather.

I’m guessing CBM would supply but didn’t really list the part on website so here is a link to the pump and you can see in Related Products what I mean by ‘with kit‘ and ‘with breather‘.

Power Steering

They’ve listed standard front accessories but I wonder if this just means provision for or the accessories themselves too? 

Fuel System

Single line with recirc at tank (as opposed to a pressure regulator at rail and dual lines from tank through fuel rail)? I know some of the bigger V8 setups run a single larger fuel line but I’m not sure what their approach is.

Fuel pump pressure regulator and line/rail pressure?

Pump specification for fuel lines?

Will they supply us with the pump they dyno the motor with?


I’m very impressed with the layout and design on Matt Field’s rear rad/fuel setup and think we could do something very similar, right down to the tank placement. I need to just double-check that where they’ve cut the rear rails back to is allowed (I’m not hugely worried as they’ve left all chassis mounting points in place).

Fields - Rear 2

We effectively have the same ‘shelf’ where they’ve put the fuel cell, and I could just make a similar firewall extension inside the cabin to accommodate.

IMG_2821You can just see what they’ve done in the left side of this photo.

Fields - Interior of tank

I’ll start to put together a spec list of parts. We can actually start a fair amount of the work in the rear as it is not totally dependent on a number of other factors.

The other approach is to floor-mount the tank and then rad on top. This is what Forrest Wang has done in his S15. Benefits here are a lower centre of gravity with fuel lower in the car. I also like the way they’ve done the battery mount next to the tank. Again – gets everything low. This car runs an electric power steering pump which they’ve mounted at the back to help clear up the engine bay (and again move more weight to the back – I think this car is a study in trying to get max weight at the back). You can just see the tank at the bottom of this pick where it is mounted in the floor.

Rear rad

Battery Mount

My opinion on the two? I think they basically accomplish the same thing just in a different way. On Fields’ car the rad sits further back which effectively preserves more of the rear window (it’s kind of hard to tell this from these pics I’ll see if I can get some better ones) – where on the S15 more of the back window is lost to create a void earlier in the car. Given the length of car we have I think I prefer the first setup – but maybe with the battery box setup of the second car instead. We’re going to lose much of the back window either way given where the rear uprights are – I had thought we might be able to get away with shifting things back but I had underestimated just how far back the window goes.

Forrest rearMattField rear

Here is Martin Wonnacot’s rear window for reference.



There are many things to work through in terms of the interior such as:


I like the simplicity here. This is a AIM MXL dash unit for reference. The unit on the left is a Turbosmart Boost controller which allows for easier on-the-fly boost adjustments – in a simple sense think of it as a way to limit boost not increase it (for low traction or wet conditions).



Really dig the dimpling in the connecting panels in this cage – they become a kind of artistic statement that also follows through to the front of the car.

Cage 4 Cage 3 Cage 2 Cage 1

Glass and Doors

(to leave windows and motors or not – that is the question!) I personally think that I can take away a lot of weight structure from the doors and we can keep the electric windows. We will need to locate or make a lexan rear window for the rad setup. The windscreen will need to be removed and then reinstalled for the gusset work along the A pillars.

Pedals and seats (and harness etc)


In terms of pedals – I really like firewall/overhung units as opposed to floor mount which I’ve just never really gotten on with, but I’m not sure what you prefer. If we go for over pedals OBP don’t really do a great variety of units that I can locate (most of them are floor units) – but Tilton pretty much make the ultimate setups in my opinion. We’ll be running an electronic throttle I’m guessing and I’m hoping that they will supply a GM electronic pedal (or recommend the setup we need) so we’ll just be looking at a Clutch/Brake setup.

Here is a link to the Tilton setups

The main differences in these (from 600 to 900) is in materials and a few other little things – I’d recommend either the 800 or 900 as the pivot design for the master cylinder is a better setup (as opposed to the fixed on the 600). On an overhung setup the cylinders are on the driver-side of the pedals and on a firewall setup they extend into the engine compartment. Given we’re free to fabricate mounts inside however we want I think the overhung will leave a tidier engine bay.





Here’s a pic of the overhung pedal setup in Forrest Wang’s setup – this is a Wilwood unit.


Engine Bay

I really like the front cross member style in Forrest Wang’s car – with the dimpled panels. The detail is really nice at the ends too as you can see on left of this photo.

Front cross member 2